A Rainy Night in Salzburg

I'm about to spoil the order of the telling of my trip, but I can't help it. I feel for some reason that this post must be written before others that chronologically came before it. What can you do- the heart wants what it wants, amirite.

Ah...the convenience of snapchat

Our second dinner in Salzburg was right in Mozartplatz, the old town, which boasts the oldest restaurant in Europe. Something like that. But it was a very nice sort of place, and I was dreadfully under dressed. I had taken the minimalist approach to packing, you see, and hadn't packed any nice things to wear.

They had forgotten about us vegetarians, although our tour guide assured us that he'd spoken with them twice about it. It didn't matter; I wasn't in any hurry to eat. When a dish of vegetables and rice was finally placed in front of me, I still wasn't hungry.

There was a show going on outside- a taste of what was to come in the next few weeks during Salzburg's festival of the performing arts. While I was waiting I made myself comfortable on the ledge and watched the actors. Later, when I'd lost interest in picking at my food, I again repaired to this ledge, and hung out the window to watch the crowds disperse.

A bevy of girls tripped gaily by, tossing their bright heads and chattering enthusiastically. Behind them followed their grandmothers. Some of them had covered their hair demurely with scarves. Impulsively, I leaned out a little more and waved. Amused by the friendliness of an American and a tourist, they waved back. I watched them all disappear past the archway.

Some time passed. I must have spent it without thinking of anything of note, because when my name was called, I found myself staring into space. All of a sudden the room was too warm. There was a touch of overripeness and something bloated in there. My friends seemed strange to me, but they weren't. I was the one being strange.

I couldn't stand it. The expressions on the servers' faces were grotesque in their amiability.

I fled.

Left the private dining room we were given, turned left. Then left, after a series of open doors. There was another window and another ledge- a bigger ledge with a heater in front of it. I flung that window open and clambered up beside it, a process made much easier by my sensible clothing (the ledge was pretty high, and some people had changed into dresses). I don't know how long I sat there, leaning wearily against the window frame. Ten minutes, maybe. 

<-- I meant Salzburg (in the video)

The sky was a funny mix of gray and pink, and the light that pierced that glorious gloom wasn't quite golden like it is back home. I blinked and missed the moment when pink began giving way to violet. It began to rain. Slowly, and then in earnest. Fat raindrops hit the cobblestones and drummed against the rooftops. Music to the ears of a drought-weary Californian.

The rain cooled the air, made it breathable. I no longer found myself stifled. Just in the nick of time, too, because I was joined by a girl I'd met on the trip. We sat and talked about something we found very important at the time, and then returned when informed that desert was ready.

Later, our group split. I followed the bigger half to watch some traditional dancing, a story for another time. Before that, we went for drinks on a terrace.

The walk to that terrace was steeply set into the hillside, with uneven cobblestones beneath our feet. It was the very picture of romance, what with the warm cloak that fell with dusk, the old crumbly (but stout still) buildings, the perfume of green things. Just after our breaths became labored-mine, at least- it began to rain again.

Do you not think that there is something of the divine in the first rain drops that fall before the deluge? They are the first to burst through the dam up in the skies while their eager compatriots squirm in cloudy prisons. They fell and kissed our cheeks as they fell. Soon the ground was filled with their falling bodies. We made it to the terrace before the rain really came down, to my consternation.

I was still feeling odd, so after my group found a table beneath some umbrellas, I fled again. I left by way of another terrace, climbed some stairs, hiked up a ways beside the road. I let myself get drenched, let the water cool my feverish cheeks and wash the paint off my face. My mascara is made of blackberries, and their sweet scent floated to me as the stuff ran down my face and was gone.



I liked the way my skin looked by streetlight, a glimmering, greenish bronze. Some others had followed me, and we spoke very seriously for a while. A different madness came upon me, the kind accompanied by mysterious smiles and a wild kind of gladness. Perhaps it was the rain.

When we returned, we found everyone crammed at a table removed from the reaches of water. Pity. We had our schnapps like children tasting cider for the first time.

Boo.

Festung Hohensalzburg

Imagine that you stand where I stood, that you feel the breezes move strands of hair like tracing lines on a sheet of music. The light has just begun to fade and the heat has begun to lose its intensity- just a little. It's nearing suppertime, and somehow, empty bellies make for greater views. 

On July the 17th, we crammed ourselves into a funicular bound for the Hohensalzburg Fortress, situated on the crest of the Festungsberg. I remember that I pressed my cheek against the cool metal pole, and wrapped my burning arms about it. I need hardly to describe the animal heat to you. I welcomed it, although I greeted it with considerably less enthusiasm when the funicular began to move and other people's sweat dripped on me.

There was a vague discontented hum brought on by the stuffiness, and here and there were gasps of delight as people looked out through the glass. Louder still were some people's silent awe at the trees that stood stoutly below us, the rock of man meeting that of the mountain. 

           

We burst into the late afternoon gratefully, flinging ourselves away from our neighbors. It was rather like a tin of sardines, remember. We hiked our way to the entrance of the fortress, and were confronted by a formidable staircase. Pause. Regroup. Reconsider. Disperse in search of water. After finding some friendly bartenders who filled our bottles free of charge, we made the trek back to the place at the foot of the stairs.

What a view. Not even at the highest vantage point, either. Salzburg lay below us, spread like a tapestry. There was the old town, from whence we came; there was the new. And splitting them was the river, the mighty Salzach. The bridge above it, by the way, was heavy with locks and the waters swollen with keys. Just like in France, although not nearly as full. 

So we went up that staircase, and halted within the walls. After threading the wires of the audio guides about us, we followed the tour and scrutinized many, many men in red. This one ordered the fortress built, that one spiked the salt trade, that one was an idiot. Many expanded the walls, raised them ever higher. It's funny that they did that, because the Hohensalzburg was never breached. It was that intimidating, I guess. I did hear a funny story about how when besieged by a peasant mob, the prince-Archbishop paraded the same cow painted different colors to dishearten them. It was a ruse to convince the rabble that their stores were so great that cows just rambled about on the battlements. It worked, and the peasants went home discouraged.

How on earth does one go about painting a cow? 

The best part, I think, was climbing to the very top and looking out. Especially since the torture room was essentially a glorified storage room, and never used for torture at all. Alas, our fascination with the abomination remained unsatisfied

We passed through the cemetery on our way back.

Tomorrow I think I will tell you about the rain that night, and St Gilgen another time.

Land, Ho: Salzburg

The day was balmy when we arrived in Salzburg. It was unusually warm, in fact, although the rains still swept through in the evenings and washed the stickiness from the air. By this time I was used to the layer of sweat that clung to me like a second skin, and the disregard for air conditioning. I kind of liked it actually; something about walking and sweating made me feel travel-worn and productive, like when a good pair of boots wear down and become covered in dust.

So the train lurched to a stop, and we lurched with it. Filing off, we congregated in the vaguely cooled station. Our first taste of Salzburg was laced with the salt of sweat and flies and impatience. We took a bus to our hotel, the Castellani Parkhotel. I really did like that hotel. Maybe I'll dedicate a post to it, because it fulfills some forgotten fantasy of mine. I'd like not to forget that.

Mozartplatz part 1

Mozartplatz part 2 

             
We set off in search of lunch, that enticingly simple meal of market fruits to be washed in local fountains and pretzels, in the old town: Altstadt. We followed the path along the Salzach River, whose roar was dimly felt. It was robust and brown and, on the other side, sat the mountains with their whispering trees and laughing brooks. I never thought a river could be beautiful unless is was clear and blue.

It was very hot. Sweat slid between our shoulder blades and those carrying backpacks shifted the weight from shoulder to shoulder, revealing darker patches on their shirts. It was a kind of glory, you understand, to sweat beneath the Austrian sun. To sweat and think about food and feel excited by our ignorance of a new place.

Wolfgang "The Stud" Amadeus Mozart

We found the old quarter, called Mozartplatz after the city's resident darling, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. We were left to our own devices for a while, with languid instructions to meet back at some hour I can't remember for our tour.

My chief interest was not food; while abroad, I didn't have much of an appetite. Although the pretzel was good, although the peaches were plump and sweet, I had to force myself to eat. Perhaps it was the excitement.

Our guide was named Philipp, a mild mannered history teacher who seemed so quiet in comparison to our burly Markus in Munich. Not once did Philipp pound his chest and cry "Salzburg!". I didn't mind, though. I liked him too; something in his voice reminded me of an old grade school teacher, who read to us as we cooled off in the air conditioned room after lunch.

In the cathedral (which we entered gratefully after the heat of the day), we sat somewhat irreverently in the pews and listened to our guide. When he finished, I concluded to myself that Mozart must have been great fun to be friends with. He threw grandiose parties, and spent his money like water. He did not, Philipp assured us, live as an impoverished musician (common misconception), but was at times quite wealthy.

Mozart was a genius, granted, but it was his father who recognized his son's talent, and coaxed it out, cultivated it, presented it to the world. Had little Mo been born in the mountains, where there was no need for something as frivolous as music, perhaps his genius would have remained buried. I liked listening to that part.

Casa Mozart

When we left the cathedral, my skin was cool and dry. The hot air became merely a curiosity after the stone-chill inside. We saw the house Mozart was born in, a yellow structure with a system of wires outside acting as doorbells. We passed a gajillion shops selling the famed Mozartkugel.

Tomorrow I will tell you about the fortress, and maybe St Gilgen. 

The old town, with the formidable Hohensalzburg Fortress towering from above

The Train

So we said our farewells 

to the jewel of the German South

and boarded a charcoal monster

that flew ever lower on the map.

Eyes wide in wonder,

cheek pushed against palm

like a prisoner captured

by sunlight for the first time.

Lieblich. 

I wrote this on the train that took us from Munich to Salzburg. In between bouts of childish imagination and pages of The Immoralist, I watched what flew past the windows.

My friend told me once that the German countryside is the stuff of fairytales. But there is something ever so slightly twisted about the faerie folk, don't you think? Something altogether too dainty and pretty- beautiful, but full of guile. No, the sun-drenched meadows fringed with trees as eyes are with lashes came from gentler stuff. The lullabies sung to sleepy babies, the scent of robustness drifting from wildflowers clutched in chubby fists.

There were little cottages with stone foundations, and neatly plowed fields. And there were streams that glistened as they danced over the rocks and muck. How funny it is that the land should look so different than my desert sands back home, yet the light is the same. The very same.

And lord, those mountains. I have never seen anything half so honest as the giants who bent and grazed the heavens with their spines. It seems to me I've forgotten too many of them, although they cried out to me like old friends. What a jolly group, those mountains are, like old men gathered around a circle of glasses.

I didn't even have a window seat.

I wish I'd realized then, as I held an idle pen, what glory there is in trains. Perhaps when I am older I will not remember this. Perhaps I will forget how carefully I tucked my ticket in my journal, how glad I was to find the car nearly empty. Perhaps I will forget the jovial faces of my companions who sat around me.

But I got a window seat on the train that bore us dizzyingly to Vienna.

How to Embarrass Yourself Abroad (Part 2 of Biergarten Adventures)

unrelated pic of beer with a flashlight under it, because
it "looked trippy"

As promised, I will tell you now about the awful thing I did. It was change your name and move to Santiago awful, not I killed a man awful, so don't worry. 

I may as well call this "Adventures in a biergarten take 2", because clearly I don't know how to handle myself in one. I wasn't drunk this time, but if history has taught us anything, it's that I am selectively and horrifically awkward in social situations. Without further ado, I present "The Worst Thing Ever", by yours truly.

Chinese Tower, Chinesischer Turm

Some of us kids, a mix of Team Pittsburgh and Team San Diego, walked through the Englischer Garten to the Chinese Tower, where the biergarten was, to meet up with the chaperons and tour guide. No humiliation thus far on anyone's part. It was a gorgeous evening, still warm from residual heat but cooling with the help of coastal breezes. Or not, but whenever I feel a cool wind blow, I assume it's a coastal breeze. A San Diego thing, I think.

But that's besides the point. I just wanted to illustrate how nice it all was, to walk as a tiny part of a greater machine, what with the masses of people coming and going, enveloping us in their sameness. To feel the pavement through the soles of your sandals, molding more to your foot with every step...drinking in the violet dusk. 

It was dark by the time we got to the Garten, and we got quite lost. I still have no recollection of getting to the Chinese Tower, having stumbled half blind behind shadowy figures. How sweet the air smelled, carrying the fragrance of sunned grass and trees and something animal. So passed the night, wrapped in this atmospheric cloak.

But I digress. I suppose you really just want to hear how I made a fool out of my fool self, yes?

Anyways, we eventually made it to the biergarten and after leaving a sentinel on a hard-won table, we set off in different directions, in search of different beverages. Warned by my drunkard conscience, I was pleased to find that the half liter was available. I asked for a stein of Weiss, a light wheat beer (come to find out, also my favorite). 

Stop. I want to make sure that you have this image very firmly in your minds. There I was, money clutched in one hand, and a half liter of Weiss beer in the other, walking carefully up to the kiosk to pay. A tall girl who looks older than she is, although she is a legal adult in the US and is therefore a grown woman. Okay, I think you've got it.

There were people in front of me, so I was just standing there, chilling, with my beer and my money and my long ass legs. A man comes to stand behind me. I don't know how old he was; the way I remember it, he could have been thirty-five just as easily as he could have been twenty-five. He's holding a stein filled to slopping with something very dark, smelling yeasty and sharp and sweet. 

"Hallo," he said. I turned instinctively, and squinted upwards at his face. He was very tall, and I was caught off guard.

"Hey," I said. I've noticed that when most other girls are startled, their voices get higher. I have a pretty deep, gravelly voice already and when I'm surprised, I swear it gets deeper. I actually sound like a man, I think. So when you hear my "hey" playing in your head in this scene I've constructed, imagine a man saying it. 

I'm getting carried away.

So we blinked at each other for a moment, then he smiled and lifted his glass. "You are from America?" I must have nodded.

 "Have you tried this?" He made a motion with the beer. 

"No. What is it?" For some reason, the whole thing was making me fidgety. 

He said something that sounded like it ended with "Dock" or "Bock" or something. I asked somebody later, and they said they thought it must have been Doppelbock, a darker, more alcoholic brew. 

"You should try it, drink like a local," he laughed. "May I buy you one?"

If I could, I would erase my memory for the entirety of the next five minutes. As you must have inferred, this is the beginning of the worst thing I ever did. 

"I'm fourteen," I said. 

Fourteen. 

Fourteen.

actually, this was taken in our hotel in
Vienna, but this is basically the position
in which I spent this night

Remember that I have my own beer in one hand and money in the other. Remember that I look old for my age, which is already a very legal 18. Remember that I am in a biergarten, waiting in line to pay for beer. There was no way I was fourteen. 

At this point, a normal, functioning human being with even the barest shred of decency would have said something to salvage the situation. Told a joke, laughed it off, SOMETHING. 

What did I do? None of the above. We blinked at each other
some more and then I fled the scene. By that point, it was thankfully my turn to pay, which I did in a very sweaty manner. I grabbed the Weiss and ran to our table, in typical "fight or flight" style. (In case you hadn't guessed, I chose flight)

"Cynthia, that man is staring at you."

Ah, is he now? Maybe he mistook me for someone else. Maybe he's just staring off into space and I'm in the way. I've never seen him before, nope, not ever, never, never, never. He's probably not looking at me at all. You're mistaken. Yes, you see? There, he's gone off. 

And I spent the rest of the night blushing, twitching uncomfortably, and keeping my head down. 

The Englischer Garten

It's very late and I'm so tired I don't even feel the fatigue anymore- a dangerous thing. Next thing you know, I'll be singing or dancing or doing something else I have no talent for. But I mention this so that you all understand if this post goes horribly awry. I'm writing it simply as an exercise in self-discipline; if you say you'll write, you write.

On the third day we were in Munich, we had a bike tour of the city. During this fabulous (and sketchy as hell) tour, we passed through the famous Englischer Garten. Even the nude part. It was shocking, not because of the nudity, but because unlike our local nude beach, there was a variety of age groups. No children, obviously, but men and women of varying ages of adult-esque ages bared all to the sun. I can hardly call myself a regular of Blacks (resident nude beach of SD), but from my experiences there, I was not expecting that much diversity.

I'd forgotten how warm it was that day, exactly. I don't remember the sweat trickling between my shoulder blades, but it was so hot that I know it must have been so. How blue the sky was as we cycled through I can't remember, but there were a fair amount of clouds when we returned to swim in the Isar River. Were there bugs? When exactly did the light change? How did the bike feel between my legs- did my calves cramp? It's a shame I didn't think to write it all down. There were signs but what they read is lost to me now.

I had gained some control over the bike by the time we got to the Englischer Garten, so it was fine to pedal along narrow dirt paths, looking side to side in wonder. The Englischer Garten is huge- bigger, apparently, than Central Park. That doesn't mean anything to me personally, as I've never been, but some others in my group seemed impressed. Having bicycled through, I can tell you that it's quite large.

The name is given because of its relaxed, informal style that I guess is borrowed from England. My knowledge of European art stopped short at landscaping. Most unfortunate.

Vaguely I remember riding past a group of young men with instruments playing a Beatles song. I sang along and one of them waved at me. I waved back and in doing so, lost control of the handles for a hot second and almost crashed into the guy on my right. I hope they were flattered.

We had the next afternoon off, and some of us went back to swim in the river and get rid of some annoying tan lines (they got so bad that eventually at some point in Salzburg, I gave up and resigned myself to being fifty shades of brown). It was satisfying to walk the same paths we had just biked on. We crossed the same little bridge whose bumpy wooden planks had worried my tire treads. It was such a lovely, sunny day. There's something so gorgeous about late afternoon sun weaving through whispering leaves. That's another thing, the trees. Great big trees with thick trunks and proud boughs like divine shoulders, populated thickly with leaves and leaves and leaves. Their shade was pretty welcome too.

When you're artsy af (the Isar River is beyond the path,
under the trees- where you see people disappearing)

We spread our towels at the edge of a grove of such trees, separated from the Isar by the path we had ridden on. The Isar was shaded, so the water was cold, shocking to sun-drenched skin. We were not too far from the permanent wave, so the current was quite strong. It was a struggle to remain standing, and for some reason I no longer know, it was vitally important for me to fight my way upstream, all the way to the little bridge. The river bed was littered with sharp bits of rock and sand and what could have been bone or shells, which didn't help.

There was a young family, with a little girl whose hair looked the way I think spun gold must look. Her father was of the same coloring, her mother dark. The child clung to her father and shrieked with delight as his strong arms dunked her and zoomed her about. He exchanged grins with another man, a foreigner. They didn't share a common language, but the man told me that he was visiting from South Korea. I explained my mission to him, and he graciously got out of my way. He seemed like a nice man.

Something I don't want to forget: the banks were as a sheer face. They did not go gradually into the water, but ended abruptly, with roots sticking out, and rocks acting as steps below the surface. One had to depend on the strength of her arms to lower her in. And her arms were awfully tired.

How green everything was. Also, I seem to recall that we seemed to be surrounded by Munich's most attractive locals. Or maybe everyone in Bavaria is beautiful af.

To get out and feel the sun bake our skin dry, feel the wind stir our wet hair, was splendid. It was the way it was when one emerged, dripping, from the ocean. The very same, but for the taste of salt in the water and in the wind. We hauled ourselves out, tired from fighting the current, and walked self-consciously to our towels, enveloped at one point in a cloud of smoke. Some guys were passing around a joint on a bench. Just like home.

I wasn't homesick, though, and I thought about how strange that was as I surrendered myself to the sun. We took turns playing music for each other, educating each other. Hozier, Loreena Mckennitt, Cage the Elephant, Slipknot, Doris Day, Janis Joplin, Sarah Vaughan. Guess which ones were mine.

No matter where you are in the world, the sun claims you the same. If the clouds allow its rays passage, if the temperatures permit, you burn the same in San Diego as in Munich. But not in Shanghai, because the pollution is so bad the heat is diluted.

Next time I will tell you what happened in the biergarten by the Chinese Tower. Completely sober, I did probably the stupidest, most embarrassing thing in the history of my existence.

On Getting Sleepy in the Augustinier-Keller Biergarten, Munich

Before I tell you what took place that first night in Munich, I would like you to know that I had not slept for 36 hours, had eaten only a pretzel and a peach from the Viktualienmarkt, the local farmer's market. 

So we had gone to the Augustinier Biergarten that night, in search of...well, what you would expect. Beer. Given the outrageous drinking age in America, I was eager to drink for the first time. Well, legally, anyway. 

The Viktualienmarkt, where the produce is cheap because rent is cheap...favors the Mom-and-Pop shops over fast food joints

In keeping with my recent bout of rebellion, I texted my mother: "Going out drinking lol". To my disappointment, her response was: "OK". But I didn't let her obvious lack of concern for my nighttime activities (what fun is teenage rebellion when nobody cares?) dampen my enthusiasm.

It was a lovely, warm evening as we descended into the Sendlinger Tor station, emerged at some other, and walked to where the beer was good and the food cheap. Unlike such establishments back home, the biergarten was welcoming, unassuming in its warmth. Children sat with their parents, or ran about at play. People of all ages mingled, and here and there wisps of cigarette smoke wove smoothly through the air, around people's heads. It was a place of drinking, but nobody was very obnoxiously drunk. There was nothing sloppy about it, or anyone partaking in it. 

I think that the relaxed attitude regarding drinking over there is healthier than ours here. There's nothing taboo or defiant about it, so there's no need to overdo it. Apparently it is the trademark of young American tourists to binge-drink over there, to make up for lost time, I suppose you could call it. It's not a big deal to them, and children grow up watching their elders drink responsibly. 

If the old cemetery is the first thing I think of when I think of Munich, the Augustinier Biergarten is the first I think of when I think of the quintessential beer garden. The floor was one of white pebbles, which apparently is the preferred ground cover in Munich. It was the same as it was in the Alter Südfriedhof, which perhaps is why my exhausted brain bothered to remember it.

My father had a rather lax approach toward alcohol himself, so it was hardly the first time I'd tasted beer. That being the case, I had taken it for granted, and never truly believed that it was something that could make me drunk. Having sampled Mao Tai  amongst several Chinese brandies and wines, I underestimated the German brew. 

Kindly recall the state my body was in: sleep deprived and low on fuel. I went and ordered myself a whole liter of Augustinier Edelstoff. That's pretty potent stuff, you know. If you didn't know, you must now realize it. Another funny quirk is that they stop serving half liters after 5 pm, and obviously I wasn't going to miss out on an opportunity to immerse myself in the culture. 

Halfway through I knew I was drunk. I never even felt buzzed. You know, I always thought that I'd be a classier drunk. This, unfortunately, was not the case. My table- two chaperones and a classmate- had a good laugh at me. 

It was the strangest feeling, because I felt that I was faking and that all the swaying was voluntary. I was convinced that I was doing it all for attention, putting on a show to be funny. Then when I went to stop myself, I couldn't. My speech wasn't slurred noticeably, but boy did I have a hard time walking back to our hotel. 

Good times, eh?

And in case you were curious, that was the best beer I'd ever tasted. At that point, anyway, because I had a half liter of Weiss a few days later. Edelstoff is typically sweeter than most other beers, which effectively masks how much stronger it is. It's got this bright, brassy ring to it somehow, like you're drinking something sunny. Yes, that's a good way to put it. It's a sunny drink. 

So, as you'd expect, I had some trouble unlocking my door and navigating my room. My roommate was asleep and I didn't want to wake her. Naturally, that meant I promptly banged into the wall, and fell atop my suitcase. Yes, I woke her up. Yes, she was amused. 

It was an amusing night. 

Alter Südfriedhof, in the Heart of Bavaria

I am finally beginning to come home to San Diego. I miss Germany and Austria, but the patterns of my life here are picking up almost where they left off. In any case, Time passes and we grow up with it.

An outdoor cafe somewhere outside of our hotel, called Carat
 (very early morning, Day 1)

I wish I'd written more while I was over there. Now that I'm back and miss traveling so desperately, I regret not leaving a record of my thoughts and feelings when they were fresh. That's one less thing for me to sift through when I try to recapture whatever mood, whatever emotional state I'd found over there. I didn't even take very many pictures. Or at least, I could have taken more.

But I think it is time now for me to sit and preserve what remains of the trip. I have collected all my train ticket stubs, my receipts, my brochures, and my luggage tags and smoothed them out, placing them in a box for safekeeping. It's so I can look through it later, and remember a little.

I won't be able to tell things exactly as they were, because memory is never completely reliable. I won't know how to describe the way the light looked in the early morning when we woke up that first day. Nor the way it felt to wake so early, to look over and see a strange girl in bed next to me, the feeling of intrusion. I can't make you understand what I myself did only a little while ago, and then forgot.

I think I will write a few posts on specific places and experiences, rather than going day by day, or place by place. If you are interested, my APEC teacher did just that:  http://majesticeurope.blogspot.com/

Today I want to talk about Alter Südfriedhof. The name translates to "Old South Cemetary", and when I think of this trip, and of Munich, that is what comes to mind first. I asked our tour guide about it later, but I can't remember if he was the one to tell me about it. Perhaps not, but I remember asking him all the same.

Alter Südfriedhof

Duke Albrecht V founded it for plague victims in the mid 16th century, which explains its location outside of the city gates, Sendlinger Tor. Apparently a great many notable painters, musicians, muses, and writers are buried here. None of the names jumped out at me, so I never bothered to remember any of them. That's enough background, wouldn't you say? That's all I've got in any case. Either that or I've forgotten the rest.



We'd discovered this cemetary, Alicia and I, on that first morning. I'd woken before her and sat in the inky morning light, refreshed and restless. We were out the door before 6 am. I waved to the young man behind the front desk as we left. I got a bemused look in return.

Side note: I think I've done a pretty terrible job deciding the order of these pictures, but let's pretend like that adds to the charm shall we?

Alter Südfriedhof, on a Northerly path. Or was it Westerly? Neither. It was Southerly. I think. 

I like being out very early and very late, because all the other tourists are in bed and I can be as touristy as I want all by myself. I mean, at 5:45, pretty much everyone else is still in bed. I thought it was pretty weird that their convenience stores didn't open til 8. Here they never seem to close. 8 doesn't seem like a very convenient time to open, if you ask me, but then, I appreciated the refusal to honor the instant gratification principle.

Either way, we were out in search of a convenient store that was open. That was how we came upon the old cemetery. We cut through it as a shortcut to get across town to a gas station. Ali must have looked up directions on her phone, or else how could we have possibly known to go through there? But I seem to recall finding the gas station convenience store with a sense of being lucky, so maybe the traipse through the cemetery was just exploration on a whim.

I love that cemetery. We walked through it every morning, discovering every inch we could. It's very old, almost- but not quite- overgrown. It's not so sanitized as some other graveyards I've seen, with their orderly rows of white markers on manicured grass beds. In Alter Südfriedhof, no two graves were alike. 

It was very peaceful in there, although there was only a wall separating it from the street. There were barely any cars so early in the morning, but even on our way back, or on days when we came later, the sound of engines and people driving was muted. I think it's the ivy on both sides of this wall. It grew so thickly and in such robust clusters and tendrils that it must have muffled the noise. 

There's a playground immediately outside the first half of the Alter. Ali called it creepy and I suppose in a way, it was pretty gruesome to have children play so close to the site of the sleeping dead. But I've noticed that we're the only ones that make such a big fuss about Death. It's as natural as living, you know. Maybe they aren't so afraid of it there.



There's so much more that I can't make clear. How the gravel crunched under my sandals, the individual pebbles finding ways to worry my toes. How the air smelled of leaves and soil and rain. How some of the statues had lost noses and worn so that they looked ghoulish, all discolored and Voldemort-y. How the man in the blue linen shirt looked up at us, surprised to find anyone at all there, but especially foreigners. How the massive sculpture of Jesus on the Cross had turned green in some parts. 

Good thing I have pictures.

You know, for a cemetery, this was a surprisingly charming place. Not exactly welcoming, because there was this sense of disinterest in the coming and going of people. Not foreboding, though. No brooding gloom, no threat of zombies. Very beautiful. I miss it already. 

Not as macabre as it sounds.

Home is Where the Heart is

I am home again, and everywhere I look is a sight both familiar and alien. I am at once comforted and unsettled by the amenities I had become accustomed to live without: my car, gleaming sleekly in the driveway; my bed, waiting for only one tired body; my closet, with more clothes than I remember what to do with.

While abroad, I had gotten used to walking more than ten miles a day on considerably less food. Breakfast consisted of black coffee, some nice German breads, melon, and tomatoes. Lunch was more often than not a nectarine, bought from the street market, and a chunk of bread, maybe a pretzel. Dinner was whatever, but I never over ate there. I already miss that, the feeling of satiation without extension- full, but still light. I woke this morning to a yearning in my legs to walk. The muscles had already hardened under the stress of visiting Mozart's birthplace, walking along rivers, tiptoeing to see over old castle walls.

It's so easy to see why people over there age so very well, and are so trim.

This post is to be very short, because I can no longer sit still enough in this room to write about what's already forgotten. I just want to tell you that I miss being a guest in another land, and thinking of anything other than the here and now.